Battery upgrade in 2010-2020 5th Gen 4Runners. For reference, mine is a 2016 TRD Pro.
The stock battery in all 5th gen 4Runner’s is a Panasonic. It’s rated at 530 CCA, and a reserve capacity of 20hrs at 65ah, BCI Group 24F, and comes in about 60#.
While this battery is only a few months old, I decided to upgrade it to a Group 31. The factory Panasonic battery was testing out at 560CCA, but was dropping to 8-9 VDC when cranking. My added electronics didn’t like this voltage drop, as they would go off and come back on.
I was originally looking for a Group 31 Diehard Platinum, aka Odyssey. These are no longer sold from Sears. Rumor has it that Northstar is a split off of Odyssey. The X2 batteries sold by Batteries Plus are made by Northstar. Here is the actual battery:
I ordered the battery online for pickup in my local store. Usually they are running some type of a promo, in my case a 10% off items ordered for pickup in the store. There was also a $30 mail-in Rebate. List price on the battery is $379. 48 Month Free Replacement (60 month if you just get the stud terminal version) 1150 CCA and 220min reserve, and about 75#, 15# more than the stock.
When you pickup the battery at the store have them test it in front of you. This ensures that your battery is good before beginning the project, and that you have a baseline in CCA for your notes.
If you look closely, you will notice the terminals are more in the middle to the front. The Odyssey battery has terminals located at the rear. I mention this because in order to make this battery work you will need to extend your cables. Forums report the Odyssey battery working without cable extensions. That’s great until you need a battery replacement, and the replacement has the terminals in a different location and the cables won’t reach! Best to be safe than sorry, as it will happen at the least convenient time.
Other needed items (I’ve included links to Amazon for your connivence!)
10″ Battery Hold Down Bolts Appx $6
Positive Jumper Cable Appx $25
Negative Jumper Cable Appx $25
Group 31 13″ Noco Battery Tray Appx $26 (Found locally at a non-chain store for $20)
Blue Sea Terminal Covers Appx $7
Blue Sea Dual Cable Caps Appx $16
Insulated Power Junction Posts Appx $15
Heat Shrink Wrap
Misc Bolts (metric), washers, and nuts,
Cable ties (Black and Red Preferred, 2 each)
Drill, 3/8″ Bit
Bolt Cutters or hack saw
WD40 or LPS1
2 pairs of pliers
Various sockets, ratchet, extensions, std and metric (I used 10mm, 12mm, 1/2″, 7/16″ and 9/16″. All 3/8″ Drive.
- Remove your old battery and tray. You can disconnect the cables from the clamps, and leave the clamps on the old battery. We won’t be reusing the battery terminal clamps with the new battery. (Some say one is better than the other. Semi’s use the studs. N’uff said)
- Remove the original hold-down bolts. Store with old tray in case you decide to go back stock. We will re-use the stock hold-down bracket.
- Install new tray. Getting two bolts in this tray is tricky, but can be done. The first bolt to install is the one closest to the fender. It actually has to be installed before the tray. take a bolt and fender washer, drop it in the hole. Now take a nut, locknut and washer, and place it on the back side loosely. Now put the tray in and massage the bolt and fender washer through the + shaped slot in the tray. This may take a couple minutes to get the right angle. Patience. Install the Metric bolt and washer in the side closest to the engine, just a couple threads. Line up the tray how you want it, and tighten the bolt. A little upward pressure on the tray may be needed until the slack is taken up. Now tighten the bolt closest to the engine
4. Using your 3/8″ Drill bit and drill, enlarge the stock battery cable holes. There are two positive cables, and one negative cable.
5. Install the battery in the tray. The negative post will be closest to the fender. Use the stock hold down clamp, and the new hold-down bolts.
It’s time to extend our cables.
6. Get your negative jumper cable, and your negative insulated post, and your negative dual cable cap. Spray one side of the cable cap with WD40. We are doing this to help the stock battery cable slide into the cable cap. using your finger, spread it around inside. Slide the stock negative cable into the lubed cable cap housing (you will have to flatten it first). Slide the jumper cable into the other side of the cable cap housing. (jumper should be on bottom, stock on top) Now place the insulated post through the middle. Using the included lock washer and nut, tighten it down. Close the cap.
7. Install the negative jumper unto the battery stud using the washer and nut provided with the battery.
8. Using the correct color cable tie, install the terminal cap over the stud and jumper
9. The positive cables are tricker. Before inserting the cables, you need to bend them flat, then bend the tabs off, and file them down. Since the one cable is at an angle, you need to slit the side of the dual cable cap where it will reside (be sure to note the top/bottom, so you slit the correct side!) This same cable (shown in 2nd photo below) needs another 1″ of electrical tape also.
10. Repeat step 6-8 with the positive cables.
11. Install 1 cable tie around each traditional terminal cap. This will help hold them on.
12. Using bolt cutters, cut off the excess on the tops of the battery hold down bolts. File smooth. Using heat shrink tubing, put a piece on each of the remaining hold down bolt threads. Heat evenly. This will help prevent you from scratching yourself as your reaching around the engine compartment.
If you use all the parts listed above and follow these instructions, it should take you about two hours to do the swap. That’s taking your time.
All my electronics are happy, as the voltage drop with the stock battery is now gone.
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Oakland CA
if you have alot of accessories, i go the biggest, northstar group 31m or standard will require a mod to the negative post, it will hit the hood. i took that out and did bolt with a lock washer.
group 27f will fit like stock. group 24f will fit, just smaller.
34r will need a spacer on the bottom since it will sit lower.
since you will have the battery out, do a big 3 upgrade, good thing to beef up the charging system. 4 gauge is a nice upgrade, but if you want to be future prof go ahead and do 1 gauge wires. use OFC, do not use CCA, you will see a big difference in price.
Pioneer DEH-80PRS,Rockford Fosgate T600-2,Hertz ML 1650.3(2 pairs),T400-2,Hertz ML 280.3(2 pairs),T1000-1bdcp,(2)JL Audio 12W6v3, Mechman 240a HO Alternator, Dual Northstar 31m,Borla Dual Exhaust,AFE Magnumforce intake.Enkei WT-4 Michelin Defender LTX 275/55R20. retrofited S2000 projectors,Osram 66240CBB,Morimoto 5Five Ballast.2 pairs of Hella Supertones.Blue cluster and climate controls.Full led conversion on interior and exterior.HAWK LTS pads f+r, Stoptech slotted rotors and stainless steel lines f+r.Firestone CoilRite 4135.Bilstien 5100 @0.85, MOOG FJ Springs.
For the last two plus years I have been utilizing the 4Runner’s stock battery for all of my power needs. I have added a number of minor electrical upgrades to the vehicle including a HAM radio, various LED lights for driving and camping, and an on-board air compressor. These items never caused enough of an energy drain to negatively impact my trips, so I left the battery in until that status changed. Shortly before my honeymoon road trip, I purchased a Dometic CFX 50 fridge to make our travels and my subsequent trips that much easier. My cooler held up well for a two maybe three day trip, but beyond that food would be warmer and likely wet if I used ice. The decision to upgrade was easy, but I knew my stock battery’s days were limited.
There is a ton of documentation on the difference in battery types, but for this I will sum it up briefly. In regards to these type of vehicle, there are really two main types of battery. Batteries designated as “starting batteries” and those labeled “deep cycle”. A starting battery is designed to release energy quickly to start the vehicle and then be replenished via the alternator once the vehicle is running. A deep cycle battery is designed to be run down in capacity over time, and then have the ability to be replenished without long term harm. This is ideal because of the demand that accessories like a fridge place on the vehicle’s electrical system. When you run a fridge on a starting battery, you immediately begin to compromise the battery’s ability to charge and hold that charge. For me, it was about a month before I began to see the effects on the battery and shortly after that where I found the 4Runner unable to start after sitting for 5 days with nothing on inside the vehicle. It was time to upgrade.
When deciding which battery I wanted to upgrade to, there were a few that immediately stood out. North Star High Performance AGM and Odyssey Extreme AGM. These American made batteries use AGM technology with virgin materials making their ability to hold a charge far superior compared to a similarly sized “wet battery”. After some extensive research, I discovered that the X2Power battery line from Batteries Plus is manufactured by Northstar. And with the extensive nationwide Batteries Plus network and 5 year replacement warranty, the choice became simple. Honestly, with either Northstar or Odyssey you can’t go wrong. It’s just a personal choice.
Once you decide where you are buying your battery from, you need to figure out which size will work best for the application. For the X2Power line, there were three main options to replace the stock battery. The stock replacement is the Group 24F, and two options for a larger capacity are the Group 27F and the 31. Both of the larger batteries provide a higher cranking amp rating, and a higher capacity,. But they also both require modification to the 4Runner to make it fit. The Group 27F will fit with a swap of the stock battery tray to one from a 4th generation V8 4Runner which came with a 27F. Available from a dealer, the tray is an easy swap and the battery installation from there is plug and play. For the Group 31, a larger “battery cage” is required to strap it down, and cable extenders will need to be installed to allow for the factory cables to reach the 31’s terminals. The other major drawback to the Group 31 is the well documented issue with the inner fender cracking from weight/vibration stress because of the Group 31’s seventy-five plus pound weight. The tray supports simply weren’t designed to handle that much weight.
With all of that in mind, I decided on the smaller of the three options, the stock size 24F. I came to this decision because I don’t want to deal with any weight related issues with the Group 31, and I didn’t want to spend more for the larger tray needed to run the 27F. After discovering that the 24F is the same battery used in my wife’s 2004 Highlander, I made the decision that I would start there. If I find that I need more capacity, I will be able to donate the current 24F to her car, and upgrade to a 27F. However, with the fridge being the main draw while the car is off, I think that the 24F will be more than enough to support it when the car isn’t on at camp (typically is about a 24-36 hour window). In a worst case scenario, the fridge has an automatic low voltage cutoff to keep the battery from being drained completely, and in an absolute worst case scenario I have my NOCO jump starting battery in the back seat to get me going again. Either way, I will get home but it'll be a tougher day with warm beers...
My approach may be a bit trial and error, but if I can get away with less I will certainly take advantage of it! Many go over the top with their power sources but jumping to the largest battery available or a dual battery system without really testing what their needs are. So here is me starting at the bottom working my way up if needed! I will update this blog after I have had some time with the new X2 and report on it’s performance.
NOW... it’s time to camp!
Are you getting the “ Check Engine Light” code on your 4Runner’s gauge? Or is it time to replace the stock Toyota battery? Here you will get a total solution with some suggestions for the best Battery for 4Runner.
To survive your vehicle in a heavy ride or on a long drive, you need a good battery for proper power supply. And getting the exact fit among so many brands becomes challenging sometimes.
However, we bring here some Toyota 4Runner battery after going through several facts and considerations.
So, see them out.
Best Battery For 4Runner Toyota
Let’s not drag further. Rather get into the detailed feature of these splendid 4Runner batteries.
1. Odyssey 34R Battery– Super Cranking Power & Resists Vibration
Odyssey batteries are one of the reliable names in automotive batteries. When thinking about the Toyota 4Runner, it is not behind.
This Battery comes with 850 CCA( Cold Cranking Ampere), which is quite more than the stock CCA. If you are a rough rider or storing your furious runner in extreme cold, have no worries in the startup. With this higher cranking ampere power, it will get proper power from the key turn.
The essential fact-Reserve Capacity is 135 minutes here, meaning it can deliver 68 Amp power in 20 hours. That is the thundering part of this battery. This higher Ampere Hour helps much in the 4Runner engine.
Odessey 34R size battery is exactly a good power delivery system for the 4Runner. It has a higher performance output with deep cycling capacity that most of the modern gen engine needs.
This 1500 PC of Odessey battery is of AGM(Absorbed Glass Mat) type that contains pure virgin Lead plates. Here, this is the best 5th gen 4runner group 24 battery for its higher discharging rate than most conventional batteries.
After the purchase, you will get it fully charged. You can take this battery up to almost 3 years with a hard ride.
- Non-spillable design
- Resists vibration
- Dramatically powerful Battery
- Replacement warranty
- Maybe troubling for the dual terminal option.
Available On Amazon
2. Optima Red Top Battery– High-Performing Battery with Innovative Cell Technology
Optima brings three different color top batteries with performance variations. And this red top is one of them.
This battery delivers higher powers with 800 CCA power. Whether you are extreme sunny or acute cold or harsh, the Optima battery delivers sufficient power to burst for proper ignition to the engine.
It has 100 minutes of RC, which can keep consistency in power delivery. This battery features another beneficial part that is the resistance to vibrations. And that is fifteen times more responsive and durable than others.
The unique part of the Optima battery is the spiral cell technology – its core build format. Other typical AGM batteries consist of flat Lead plates. But here in Optima, you get spirally wounded Lead plate more protective of the tolerances and extreme condition.
Other than automotive, this battery is proudly being used in RV, diesel vehicles, and heavy electronics equipment.
For its durable and authentic cell technology, you can undoubtedly choose this battery for 4Runner.
- Unique cell method
- Highly resistive to vibration
- Massive power deliver
- Durable & flawless performance
- Has issue for not selling in Catalina Island
Available On Amazon
3. Delphi Maxstart AGM Battery– Optimum Vibration Resitsing Battery with Super Durability Features
Delphi BU9034R is an exact fit for the Toyota 4Runner power source. It comes with some extended power delivering capacity.
It has 775 CCA power, which can smoothly provide superior power at the start of the engine.
120 minutes of Reserve capacity here with this one delivery 120 power for up to 120 minutes at 25 amperes. So, no compromise here in power discharge as it can deliver 55 Amp power at 20 hours.
Delphi battery group size is 24F, which is an exact replacement to the factory Toyota 4Runner battery. So, whoever is searching for exactly the stock replacement or better than that, this is the best battery for 5th gen 4Runner.
This battery has an excellent capacity to resist vibrations from the ride. And this is 20 times higher and stronger than other conventional batteries.
This AGM battery is a perfect option to provide power to the heated engine parts to the DVD player, electronics, etc.
- 2 times of life cycle than others
- Highly corrosion-proof welding
- Lightweight than the factory battery
- Exact OEM fit group size
- Be sure to buy from original sellers.
Available On Amazon
4. ACDelco Professional Battery– Additional Safety Providing Deep Cycle Battery
It is a 24 size battery, including superior AGM technology. But here you get some extra safety feature in the built of this ACDelco battery.
In this Battery, you get an exceptional valve gas recombinant technology in its built technology. Here, Oxygen gas is recombinant with the cell to reduce the water loss and to prevent the battery from dry out.
This feature makes this battery, however, durable that is 3 times than other conventional AGM batteries. Again, this will give a deep cycling performance for a long time power transferring service.
Here, the two-terminal of this battery is made with Calcium alloy preventing any damage by acid. And this ensures the superior durability of the ACDelco battery.
ACDelco battery has 149 minutes of RC with higher crank power. It is so high that it provides a greater charge delivering consistency and performance.
Classic passenger car to RV, diesel truck to a minivan, and electronics you can use ACDelco battery.
- Built-in superior quality
- Leak-free design
- Highly chare capacious
- 3 times longer life cycle with improved safety features
- Must check the expiry date before buy
Available On Amazon
5. NorthStar 24F AGM Battery– Higher Cycle Charge with Superior Heat Resistance
NorthStar brings an AGM battery with some high featuring safety qualities.
This battery is of 24F group size, meaning the precise fit to the Battery for 4Runner. 840 CCA power gives it a higher power delivering power.
And 140 minutes of so higher RC time helps in containing sufficient power with a balanced discharge.
NorthStar battery can cycle over 900 providing a 50% more deep cycle than other typical AGM batteries. However, it charges faster too.
This Battery also comes in a plastic house that keeps it more secure and durable, no matter how hard or rough you drive.
It seems a little bit pricy to some, but thinking about its quality features is a pro with ultimate offers.
NorthStar is the best Battery for 5th gen 4Runner. And with unwanted power consumption, this battery can deliver and be by your side for a longer time.
- Long-lasting performance
- Higher startup in any weather
- Ultra-high power deliver features
Available On Amazon
How To Buy The Battery For 4Runner?
Buying a good battery is vital to surviving your car till the end also to get safe stuff for your engine. Moreover, you have to check for some major keys in the Battery for the right fit under the hood.
Let’s help you by showing those major key points you should look at before buying a battery for 4Runner.
Battery Group Size
While buying the car batteries, the group size or the OEM recommended size number is crucial for the engine’s right fit. Every engine battery has a featured group size that defines the battery size meaning the length, width, and height. So, you must know your engine’s battery group size and then look for that size of batteries.
For the Toyota 4Runner engine, the factory battery is 24F that is finely compatible with any 34R or exact 24F size of batteries.
Cold Cranking Ampere (CCA) Number
The CCA number is another crucial point to check in batteries. The CCA number defines the Ampere amount of the Battery that can provide in the engine’s startup.
It is kinda hard for a battery to start with a full-on power source in the extreme cold region. So, the higher CCA helps here much.
However, it is also known as CA, representing the Ampere number that can deliver power at 0°F temperature, which is considered the normal temperature.
The Toyota 4Runner factory battery comes with 530 CCA. If you think you need some upgrade with this, go for a higher CCA for greater performance output.
For any reason, it is recommended for the aftermarket purchase to go for a higher CCA no matter whatever the riding purpose is rough or regular.
The Reserve Capacity(RC)
Reserve capacity is counted in minutes. It refers to the time till the battery can sustain power at a 25 Amp rating. Multiplying the RC number with the delivered charge resulted in the Ampere Hour(AH).
For regular to moderate riding conditions, a Toyota 4Runneer needs a minimum of 65 AH rate of the battery. If you can’t find the Ampere Hour rating in your chosen battery, then you can find out this rating by dividing the RC number by 2.
Battery Manufacturing Date
To get a good and properly functioning battery, check the battery’s age. You can also check the manufacturing date from the seal on the body.
In automotive batteries, the manufacturing date is indicated with two letters where the first one consists of alphabets and the second one number. The letters define the month number, and the numbers are for referring to the manufacturing year.
For instance., A battery has a seal written B8, meaning the battery was manufactured in February 2018 or 1998. In this way, A referring to January, C referring to March, and so on.
Check the battery is not more than ten years old for proper operation. Otherwise, age-old batteries will not work fine rather cause a hamper to the engine and life.
Never Buy The Used Batteries
The famous automotive expert and Youtuber Scotty Kilmer always forbids to buy the used battery for high-performing cars, at least unless you don’t personally know the seller.
You might not know how much a used battery can last or how much performance it can give up to the mark. So, better spend some bucks and buy a new good battery.
Maintenance-Free Sealed Battery
These days sealed batteries are quite popular for having no trouble with adding water or any other maintenance. Though this feature has made automotive batteries a little expensive, your time saves.
For that, look for the correctly sealed batteries that need no further maintenance. Just plug and play type.
The terminal position does not fact much in batteries if you can get the right fir and group size. But if you are buying the battery for 5th gen 4Runner, you might face this issue of extending the battery terminals if not exactly compatible.
Most often, people do not bother with the weight of the battery. But for your fast and furious 4Runner, you should ensure the battery weight is not too much. The less your battery weight is, the faster your 4Runner will function.
The added weight of the battery can make your 4Runner a bit slower. However, you may find most of the batteries weighing around 50 to 80 lbs of weight. You can choose from a range of batteries having 20 to 30 Lbs of weight, but that would cost higher too.
How To Change The Battery in Toyota 4runner
Changing the car battery is now a one-two task for the maintenance-free and easy installation service given by the battery manufacturers. And for Toyota 4Runner, it’s no different.
Let’s show you how you can replace it yourself.
Step 1: Shut off the engine. Let it cool down for a few minutes to avoid any injuries.
Step 2: Open the engine hood. Locate the battery.
Step 3: Use a socket wrench and loosen the bolt over two terminals, positive and negative ones.
Step 4: Unplug the two terminals and keep them away from the battery.
Step 5: Loosen the clamp that is covering or holding the battery into place. Take it off the battery.
Step 6: Take out the battery carefully.
Step 7: Place the new battery into place. Before that, it would be better to clean the battery area and the battery holding tray.
Step 8: Now, repeat all those step-3,4, and 5 in reverse. And your battery replacement is done within some minutes.
Start the engine and have a test drive right after you replace the battery.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
How often should you replace your Toyota 4Runner battery?
Mechanics and Experts recommend to change the Toyota 4Runner battery every 3 to 5 years of running. But it is also suggested to check the battery once a year.
How long do Toyota 4runner batteries last?
If you ride usual to the moderate, your 4Runner Battery will certainly last up to 3 years. That is a minimum but can vary depending on the riding performances.
To sum up, we can add that buying the best battery for 4Runner is your engine’s basic right to get. You are riding with your desiring level but get your engine the right input that will not make your engine run fine.
From our top 5 battery for 4Runner is the best pick you can ever have at a time. And we hope the suitable buying guide mentioned above will surely help you to make the right choice.
Battery 4runner size gen 5th
Toyota 4Runner Battery
DateMay 21, 2021
Toyota 4Runner owners over the years have had the luxury of having several different battery size options available to them, depending on the year of their 4Runner. Starting with the 1984 model year, 4Runner owners have a choice between two OPTIMA REDTOPs, the Group 25 or 75/25 or the YELLOWTOP Group 75/25. The OPTIMA REDTOP is a great choice in nearly every application, offering superior cranking power and current flow. However, if your 4Runner has significant electrical accessories, like a winch, alarm or aftermarket stereo, then the YELLOWTOP, designed for both starting & deep-cycle use would be the best choice.
Those battery sizes will be a common option throughout the first two generations of Toyota 4Runners. However, the 4Runners starting in the 1990 model year, will also have several additional battery sizes to choose from. The Group 34 batteries are physically larger than the Group 25 batteries and will typically offer more cranking power and reserve capacity than their REDTOP or YELLOWTOP Group 25 batteries. That includes both the Group 34 or 34/78 batteries, which have additional side terminals not present on the Group 34 batteries.
When Toyota 4Runner owners move into the third generation in the 1996 model year, the battery replacement options change and scale back to either the Group 34 REDTOP or the Group 35 REDTOP or YELLOWTOP. The Group 34 REDTOP is larger than the 35 and will offer more cranking amps, but like the previous generations, if your 4Runner is what would be considered a "deep-cycle" application, we would recommend the Group 35 YELLOWTOP.
As newer vehicles hit the road, electrical demands from the factory have increased significantly and 4Runners are no exception. Moving to the fourth generation 4Runner in the 2003 model year, the Group 35 batteries remain an option, but they are also joined by the larger, more-powerful D27F YELLOWTOP. It's actually unusual for the D27F YELLOWTOP to be an option for light trucks, but 830 cold cranking amps and 66 Ah of reserve capacity will provide more than enough power for just about any application. That big Group D27F YELLOWTOP remains an option through the 2009 model year.
As we move into the most-recent generation of Toyota 4Runner (as of this writing) in the 2010 model year, the choices go back to just the Group 35 REDTOP or D35 YELLOWTOP, as is the case with the 2015 4Runner pictured above. The same applications apply as previous generations, with the REDTOP being the choice for starting & normal use and the YELLOWTOP being the go-to battery for dual-purpose starting & deep-cycle applications.
One final suggestion we'll leave you with is that if you don't drive your 4Runner on a daily basis or only drive it seasonally, it would be a good idea to keep your battery topped off and ready to go with a quality battery maintenance device. Either the OPTIMA Digital 400 or Digital 1200 are great options, but if you purchase an OPTIMA battery and Digital 1200 from us at the same time, we will add a year of warranty coverage to your battery.
X2Power Group 27F Battery
As of this post, I am in the middle of installing a 12V fridge/freezer system in the 4Runner. However, I knew running a 12V fridge/freezer on the older stock Panasonic battery would not be ideal given its age and the fact it was not charging past 70% capacity using the stock alternator. So the search began for a new battery!
The following are a few basics to 12V batteries.
Battery Size dictates the physical dimensions of the battery, which when coupled with chemistry and cell types, also dictate the weight of the battery. Battery size is represented by two numbers followed by a letter. The two numbers are based on the physical size of the battery while the letter represents terminal polarity. The most common battery sizes for the 5th Gen 4runner are groups 24F, 27F, 31, and 34R.
One would think the higher the number, the larger the battery or higher the capacity, right? Wrong. I’ll show some numbers later on.
Weight is highly dependent on battery chemistry, size, and cell type. A typical group 24F sealed lead-acid battery, such as the OEM Panasonic battery, typically weighs around 50-60 lb. Comparatively, a group 31 AGM battery typically weighs around 75-80 lb; nearly 33% heavier than a group 24F! Weight should always be a consideration when selecting a new battery. When replacing the OEM Panasonic battery with a heavier battery, there will definitely be a slight driver’s side lean. Additionally, there I’ve read reports of group 31 batteries cracking the sheet metal it rests on after hard off-road use - a heavy duty battery tray upgrade may be necessary to prevent this unintended damage (~$200 investment).
Terminal Positions will vary depending on the battery size selected. An R or F in the battery number denotes the terminals are reversed , such that the positive terminal is the negative terminal and vice versa compared to non-lettered sizes (i.e. group 24 vs. group 24F). Different battery sizes will also have different terminal positions (we will not get into terminal sizes). For example, the terminals of group 24F, 27F, and 24F are all near the edge of the battery whereas group 31 batteries are located towards the middle of the battery. Terminal position and polarity will dictate whether or not longer custom terminal extensions are required to connect to your vehicle.
_______Cranking Amps is the maximum current a new fully charged battery can deliver for 30 seconds without dropping down to 7.2V at a specified temperature. Basically, the higher the cranking amps, the easier your engine will turn over. It is generally harder for batteries to provide the same amount of cranking amps in temperate conditions than extreme cold. These specifications are summarized below.
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) at 0F.
Cranking Amps (CA) or Marine Cranking Amps (MCA) at 32F.
Hot Cranking Amps (HCA) at 80F
Reserve Capacity (RC) is the number of minutes a fully charged battery can deliver a constant current of 25A at 80F without falling below 10.5V. It roughly describes the amount of energy the battery stores while technically specifying charge capacity.
Amp Hours (AH) should not be confused with reserve capacity. A battery’s AH rating is the amount of energy the battery can deliver continuously for 20 hours at 80F without falling below 10.5V. However, a special note is AGM batteries should not be discharged more than 50% of their rated capacity. Exceeding this depth of discharge will drastically reduce overall battery life.
The OEM Panasonic battery is a standard sealed lead-acid battery. I chose to install an Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM), which is a subset/subcategory of sealed lead-acid battery. AGM batteries have better vibration resistance, higher specific power, and better cycle life than the OEM-style battery.
The AGM main batteries I’ve observed recommended on various forums, listed by battery size.
X2Power SLI27FAGMDP: Group 27F, AGM, 930 CCA, 92 AH, 67 lb
Does not fit in stock battery tray. Requires new battery tray, or remove battery tray.
Usable 46 AH.
Odyssey 34R-PC1500T: Group 34R, AGM, 850 CCA, 68 AH, 50 lb
Fits in stock battery tray but requires spacer to raise battery to correct terminal height.
Usable 34 AH
Odyssey 31-PC2150S: Group 31, AGM, 1150 CCA, 100 AH, 78 lb
Does not fit in stock battery tray. Requires new battery tray to secure increased size and weight.
Usable 50 AH
Looking at all these numbers can criss-cross your eyes. What do they all mean? To me, the easiest way to compare these batteries was to compare energy density of each battery listed above.
Group 27F: 1.37 AH/lb
Group 34R: 1.36 AH/lb
Group 31: 1.28 AH/lb
The greatest energy density was clearly the Group 27R battery… even by a small margin. By my estimates, battery should provide about 2 days of 12V refrigerator run-time at approximately 1 AH/h (though this is usually high, depending on the compressor and weather conditions). At 92 AH capacity, or approximately 46 AH of usable capacity before 50% discharge., or 46 hours of run time without starting the vehicle to charge the battery.
The group 27F battery will not fit in the stock battery tray. An alternative swap-in battery tray is that used by Tundra’s/Sequoia’s, which is Toyota PN 74431-0C020, shown below. Don’t buy this from Amazon. Look for OEM parts from dealerships in your area - if you shop online, they usually have dealership discounts. I got it around 50% off from Amazon at a local dealer.
Steps to replace the battery is very straightforward.
Use 11mm open-ended box wrench to loosen and remove negative then positive terminals. Tuck away terminals so they’re not swinging around.
Use 11mm long socket to loosen j-hooks/battery clamp. Remove and set aside.
Replace stock battery tray with new tray.
Place new battery in tray, replace j-hooks/battery clamp, install positive terminal then negative terminal.
- 1936 ford
- Tree fort bikes
- Largest state school 1861
- Hangout app download
- Morrowind armor sets
- Nastia mouse torrent
- Phenylephrine dogs
- 200lb resistance band
- Ed roberts quotes