Seamless shiplap

Seamless shiplap DEFAULT

How to Install Shiplap

We have shiplap all over our house and its clean lines make it one of my favorite design elements to use! I even used a picture of our shiplap as the background of our website here! Shiplap is visually clean, minimal and simple, but all the lines also add really great interest and texture to any room, wall, or ceiling.

In our house, we’ve used horizontal shiplap in our living room, entryway, mudroom, laundry room, home office room, powder bathroom, master bathroom, and master bedroom, we’ve also used vertical shiplap in our pantry and basement, we have shiplap ceilings in our kitchen, dining room, and basement, and even have done designs with it in my home office. We’ve used it to create small accent features (like in our master bathroom) and at other times we’ve also done almost entire rooms with it (our theater room). So it’s an extremely versatile type of paneling that makes for a beautiful accent or design feature!

Shiplap is pretty easy to install as long as you plan your project out well and have the right tools on hand. There are many different ways to get the shiplap look but my preference is using real shiplap – which means boards manufactured to interlock/overlap in a way that leaves a small even gap between them.

SHIPLAP MATERIALS:

To start, you need to choose a shiplap board. Typical widths are variations of 1x6s and 1x8s. I use 1/2″ pre-primed MDF shiplap boards that I source locally, but I’ve provided a few other shiplap options below.

  • Primed wood shiplap:Home Depot (1x8x8 – this generally looks visually closest to what I use from what I was able to find available online though it’s a different material and thicker board)
  • MDF shiplap:Home Depot (full length) | Home Depot (wainscot length)
  • Pine shiplap (multiple color options): Home Depot (1x6x8) | Home Depot (1x8x8)
  • Cedar shiplap:Home Depot (1x8x8)
  • Nickel gap shiplap:Home Depot (1x6x8) | Home Depot (1x8x8 – this one is also a different material but from the pictures seems visually fairly similar to the type of shiplap I use)

*Note 1: If you’re using wood shiplap, check each boards for straightness before using each one. MDF has some flexibility and is generally easier to install. Real wood requires a greater level of cut accuracy.

*Note 2: If you’re using wood paneling or shiplap, I recommend to let it sit and acclimatize to your interior temperature and humidity for a week or two before using it, so allow for that time.

TOOLS + SUPPLIES YOU’LL NEED:

  • Miter saw:Home Depot | Amazon (for all regular straight or angled cuts)
  • Table saw:Home Depot | Amazon (for “ripping” side boards down to size, meaning to shorten the width of a board – you can technically do this with a jig saw or circular saw too but it’s a lot harder)
  • Level:Home Depot | Amazon (to make sure your boards are installed straight)
  • Measuring tape:Home Depot | Amazon (I hope this one is self-explanatory)
  • Carpenter’s square:Home Depot | Amazon (to draw straight lines where to saw the boards)
  • Nail gun (+ nails):Home Depot | Amazon (to attach boards to the wall)
  • Rubber mallet: Home Depot | Amazon (to tap the boards into place)
  • Paneling adhesive: Home Depot (to attach boards to the wall)
  • Caulk: Home Depot | Amazon (to fill in seams after installation)
  • Caulk gun: Home Depot (for your adhesive and caulk)
  • Wood filler: Home Depot | Amazon (to fill in nail holes)
  • Putty knife: Home Depot | Amazon (to apply wood filler to nail holes)
  • Sandpaper: Home Depot | Amazon (to sand wood filler after nail holes are filled)
  • You’ll also need painting and/or staining supplies but I figure I don’t need to list all that.

If you have to cut around anything (outlets, vents, lighting, etc) you’ll also need:

  • Jig saw:Home Depot | Amazon (to cut around outlets etc)
  • Drill:Home Depot | Amazon (you’ll need this to cut a hole in the middle of your board – drill is needed to make a hole in each corner of your cutout for your jig saw blade. Details below.)
  • Hole saw: Home Depot | Amazon (to cut out recessed lighting holes – make sure you get the right size for the specific recessed lighting you’re planning to use – they’re all different)

IMPORTANT THINGS TO CONSIDER BEFORE INSTALLATION:

  • Calculate the placement of boards across your wall/ceiling to determine the most symmetrical or aesthetically pleasing configuration of boards. Almost any walls or ceiling you decide to shiplap will not perfectly fit full boards across it. So, for example, if your wall is 114″ wide, and your shiplap boards are 5.5″ wide, that means you can fit 20 full boards (covering 110″), but you’re left with 4″ to cover which means you’ll have to use a table saw to rip that last board down to the right width. So planning ahead allows you to choose exactly where you’re going to have those uneven boards. One option is to just leave the side pieces smaller than the rest, or you can center all the boards so have have evenly smaller pieces on the two ends, or maybe you just want the one side smaller. These are things we take into consideration every time we install shiplap before installation.
  • Get extra boards. When you’re calculating how much shiplap you’ll need for a given project, it’s usually safe to count on about 10% extra for waste – better to have too much material than too little.
  • If you’re shiplapping a wall, consider whether you want a full board to start at the top or the bottom (I prefer at the top). And also consider which parts of your shiplap (if any) will be covered by baseboard or crown molding because that’ll affect how much of the boards will be visible. Note: when doing your calculations, remember to include the gap between boards in your math!
  • If you’re covering an area that is longer than the length of your shiplap board, you will have to hide the seams if you want the look of a continuous board plank from one end of your shiplap installation to the other, so also consider where these seams will be and try to vary them across your wall so you don’t end up with a line of seams all in the same spot. Also, it’s best to plan to always have the seam on a stud so that you can nail both then ends of both the boards butting up next to each other into the stud (if you don’t do this, they can bow outward and your seam will be more visible) so it’s worth it to do this even if you end up losing a bit of length off your board.
  • Once you start installing your shiplap, it is helpful to have the ‘notch’ side facing the direction you want to go because it will make it easier to interlock new boards (see middle pic below). One of the reasons for this is that you can use the rubber mallet to tap against the notch if needed to tap the board into place without damaging any part of the board that will be seen.

GENERAL INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:

  1. Using your miter saw, cut your board to length. Be sure you cut as you go instead of pre-cutting all your boards – this will ensure the greatest possible accuracy in your measurements and cuts.
  2. Apply adhesive to the back of the board in a wavy line down the middle.
  3. Place the board on the wall, and use a level to make sure it’s straight.
  4. Once you get past the first board, you will need to make sure each new shiplap board you put up properly interlocks with the one before it. You have to really check to be sure that it’s fully locked in along the entire length of the board before you go to the next step. This may require a gentle tap with a rubber mallet (just be careful not to damage the edges of the board when tapping it).
  5. Check again to make sure it’s level.
  6. Nail the board to the wall. If you’re doing horizontal shiplap, you must nail into studs, you can’t just nail it into drywall. If you’re doing vertical shiplap, obviously some of your boards won’t land on studs so for the boards that are on studs nail once per linear foot into the stud because these boards are your anchor, then for the boards between studs you’ll have to nail them into drywall but try to angle your nailer at 45* to give the nails a better grip and do a couple nails into the small overlap between boards to secure them to each other.
  7. When you get to the sides, you will have to rip your final board down to size with a table saw. Note that some homes have slightly (or very) uneven walls and ceilings so be prepared that your side boards may have varying widths along the board so measure them every 1-3 feet.

Possible things you may run into:

  • If you need to shiplap around an outlet or vent, you’ll need to precut the hole in your board. So first, measure where the hole needs to be and draw the lines with a pencil. If the hole is in the center of the board drill 4 large holes at the corners of the box you need to cut out on the inside of the box (don’t drill outside the lines) – the purpose of these holes is to give your jigsaw blade starting point in the middle of your board. Then use your jigsaw to carefully cut out the 4 lines of the box. If the hole is at the side of the board, then you’ll just need to drill 2 holes for the corners of the box that fall in the middle of the board, then cut it out with your jigsaw.
  • If you need to cut a round hole for recessed lighting, measure where the hole needs to be and find the center point. Use a hole saw to cut the hole around the center point (make sure you have the correct size hole saw for your particular recessed lighting – they’re all a little different).

HOW TO DEAL WITH CORNERS:

  • If you’re wrapping shiplap around an inside or outside corner, or down a ceiling-to-wall edge, we always miter all those corners at a 45* angle to ensure a seamless transition and so that it looks like the board is literally wrapping around the corners. You have to to consider this in your board length calculation because the mitered edge will change the overall length of your board. The easiest way I find to do it is to calculate the length of your board based on the space you’re shiplapping, then miter *out* from there for outside corners, or miter *back* from there for inside corners. This is how we make it look like the shiplap wraps around the wall with no capping trim.
  • If you need to terminate your shiplap to an outside corner that you don’t want to wrap the shiplap around (like a doorway or a drywall window return), I make my own trim by ripping a board that’s slightly thicker than my shiplap (so if I’m using 1/2″ shiplap, I’ll make my trim from a board that’s 5/8″) down to about a 1/2″ little strip. (Note: I like to use primed MDF board for this with ever-so-slightly rounded edges but if the board you’re using doesn’t have rounded edges, just sand the outside edge a bit before you rip it down so that if you bump into it it won’t be painful.) I then glue and nail that into place with a setback of about 2/16″ from the actual finished wall corner, then use that edge as the “wall” to terminate my shiplap to. Have this trim in place before installing your shiplap. If you scroll back up, you can see an example of this in the top left picture at the start of this post. I would think you can also buy this type of trim from a specialty hardware store or wood shop but I’ve had no luck finding trim of this exact size in stores so it’s easier to make my own.

FINISHING INSTRUCTIONS:

Note: this only applies to shiplap you plan to paint. If you’re using natural wood shiplap that you’re going to either leave raw or stain, then you may not wish to finish it quite the same way. It’s up to you.

  1. After all your shiplap is installed, run a bead of caulk around all seams where the shiplap terminates to a wall, or along inside corners. Use your finger to run over the bead of caulk and shmoosh it into the seam while smoothing it out. Have a wet hand towel to clean your finger as you go.
  2. Fill in all your nail holes and seams between boards with wood filler and a putty knife.
  3. Sand everything you used wood filler on (nail holes and seams between boards) until smooth.
  4. Now you’re ready to prime/paint.

PAINTING TIPS:

  • My preference is to brush and roller shiplap. Paint sprayers are great in theory but I don’t have the patience to do all the prep-work involved, I don’t like how all the little paint particles get blown into the air (and then my hair!), and finally cleaning a paint sprayer is beyond frustrating so if you have the patience for that, all power to you. But I like to stick with a traditional, easy peasy brush and roller. If you brush and roller properly, the end result is just as smooth as spraying.
  • If you’re painting horizontal shiplap white (and it’s already been primed), I wouldn’t paint your final white in between the boards. I find the slightly different tone of the primer in the grooves makes the grooves pop and you don’t notice that it’s a different white because it just looks like a shadow.
  • If you’re painting vertical shiplap white and you find that your lines between boards are “disappearing”, I recommend painting the lines with a small brush in a very light gray color – I did this in our game room and in the nook at the end of our basement hallway (behind the wood art) and found that it made a huge difference in making the shiplap pop.
  • If you’re painting shiplap anything other than white, I recommend to always paint between the seams before rollering the boards. Feather your brush strokes carefully to leave the boards smooth and with no paint streak lines or drip marks. I can’t stress enough how important this is!
  • The paint colors we’ve used are recapped on this page: Paint Colors and Stain Recap, and also posted on the individual room “sources pages” on our website so pick any room you want to know about, go to that source page, and you’ll find the relevant paint colors we used listed at the bottom. If you need help navigating, here’s our website roadmap.
  • Regarding paint sheen, we’ve used both flat and satin on shiplap and love the look of both.
  • If you use un-primed wood shiplap, you also have the option of staining it instead of painting.

PS: If you’re wondering about the wood paneling that we installed in our theater room design (similar to this: Home Depot), that is tongue-and-groove, not shiplap, but the installation method is generally the same. The natural wood material is much more frustrating to work with though, is less forgiving, and requires a greater level of accuracy so if you’re new to this, I would start with shiplap work instead.

BONUS TIP:

In our theater room, we had this white exterior door in the middle of all our shiplap whose location we couldn’t change (for reasons) so my goal was to visually minimize it while keeping it accessible. Originally, I considered hiding it behind a barn door but the door handle didn’t allow for that. Finally, I decided to simply hide it in plain sight by painting gray shiplap lines onto it continuing the shadow lines of the real shiplap boards surrounding the door! Super simple solution!!! I used frog tape (Home Depot), which is better than painter’s tape, to connect the shiplap boards on either side of the door (including the trim to keep the lines seamless) and then just painted the lines gray. I mixed different grays I had lying around my house so I don’t have a specific color to share but this project was low-risk since I could always paint it back to white if needed. Luckily though, my idea worked! Here are the before, during, after pics:

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:

  • Do you constantly have to dust between the boards? I’ve never had to (not even on the black shiplap that would really show the dust if it were there). If you live in a really dusty climate and have your windows open a lot, I suppose that might change things, but it hasn’t been an issue for us.
  • What type of shiplap is easiest to install? Horizontal shiplap installed on a wall with two perpendicular walls on either side (meaning that each side can terminate to a 90 degree wall without wrapping around a corner) will always be the easiest type of shiplap to install.
  • How do you decide between vertical or horizontal shiplap? How do you pick what parts of your house to shiplap? This is 100% personal preference. There are no rules here – in your house, you should choose whatever you love most. I make my design decisions based purely on what looks good and feels right to me. Horizontal and vertical shiplap have very different feelings to me so it really depends on what look you’re going for and what makes you feel warm and fuzzy when you look at it. Not to be cheesy here but just let your heart decide!
  • How do you have shiplap around your fireplace? Our fireplace is electric so the surround and front of it don’t get hot like a gas/real fireplace so it’s not an issue.
  • Is it trendy? What if it goes out of style??! Personally, I don’t care. I don’t follow trends or care what’s “in style”. I choose all my design elements based on how much I love them. Shiplap has been around for hundreds of years so while it may be having a moment in the spotlight, that’s not why I love or or the reason I chose to use it in my home. I strongly advise making design choices for your home based on whatever truly makes your heart happy instead of based on trends.

If you want to follow our daily progress, come follow us on Instagram @ahousewebuilt!

SOURCES:

Left pic is our Theater Room | Right pic is our Game Room


For more of our tutorials, click here.
To explore rooms in our home, click here (most have some kind of shiplap).
To follow our daily updates and home progress, follow us on Instagram @ahousewebuilt.

Filed Under: Tutorials

Sours: https://www.ahousewebuilt.com/shiplap/

DIY Horizontal Shiplap

DIY Horizontal Shiplap Tutorial

For this project you will need:

  • Miter saw

  • Nail gun

  • Air compressor

  • Level

  • 1.5" brads

  • Caulk

  • Wood filler

  • Stud finder

Project time: One weekend

Experience Level: Beginner

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Last year I added shiplap to a couple walls in our house and decided to document the process from my point of view. I looked at many "shiplap" tutorials when I was deciding what materials to use for the project, and was shocked by how many of them looked very DIY once completed, which I don't feel adds value to your home. I think there's a difference between a professional project that can by "DIYed" and the finished product looks almost the same to an untrained eye, and a project that once completed, looks "DIYed." I wanted to share what I feel is the correct way to complete the project if you're looking for a more professional finished product that adds value to your home. I want to preface this by saying I am by no means a carpenter, but I have learned some tips and tricks during our renovation to help make my projects look more professional.

I started by selecting a material. Since I wanted the project to look and feel like the shiplap I've seen in high end model homes, I decided to go with true shiplap versus any sort of wood that is installed to get the effect by using a coin to create the gap. I don't recommend this method, as it's typically suggested that you rip down sheets of plywood to create the look on a budget. Also, if you've ever tried to rip down plywood, you know that the edges are very prone to splintering and inevitably results in missing chunks in the edges of the wood. Though I've never seen a completed shiplap project like this in person, I can't image the finished results look professional, and wouldn't recommend going this route.

I ultimately went with this product that is found in stock at most Lowe's stores, and was very happy with it. It's a primed MDF, which is great for any space where you don't have to worry about moisture near the wood. I'm planning on doing shiplap in my master bath soon and am still looking for a solid wood version. Now, onto the process and steps! I took all of these photos with my iPhone, so I apologize in advance for the quality.

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The first step was to carefully demo the baseboards and quarter round on the wall so I could reuse them. After that I marked out where the studs were on the wall and lined up my first board. I used a large level to make sure things were as level as possible before beginning. This is the most important step! Take your time and do not rush through. I let the board rest on the floor naturally to see where I needed to adjust it to make it level and shimmed it up where necessary. I was doing this project by myself so I found it useful to use painters tape to help hold the board up while I ran the level across the wall and adjusted the board.

Once I got the first board level I nailed it in and after that the rest of the wall went up fairly quickly. I could only fit the 8 foot shiplap boards in my car, so I had to join the boards together to run the full length of the wall. I just made sure to stagger the end joints much like installing wood flooring, and limited it to one cut per board to lessen the amount of wood filling I needed to do later.

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I continued on until I finally reached the ceiling. I had a couple inches gap between the last board and the ceiling, but instead of wasting time and money ripping boards down to fit, I left it as I knew the crown molding was just going to cover that part anyway.

After I had all the shiplap up, I started to caulk all of the edges and fill the nail holes and end joints with wood filler. This is another very important step! Do not skip this step. I've seen many tutorials that do skip this step, or just add in quarter round on the edges to cover the gaps, and personally, I don't think that looks professional and cheapens the overall effect. Below is a before and after of caulking the end joints so that they blend seamlessly into the wall. Some gaps are larger than others due to either the wall being uneven, or me not wanting to take the time to go back and forth between the dining room and miter saw to get a more exact fit as I knew the caulk would cover it.

Before caulk and wood filler

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After caulking the end joints

The method I used to caulk the end joints was to fill along the whole edge, smooth in with my finger, and then take a cotton swab in a sweeping motion towards the opposite wall to clear the excess caulk from the gap in the shiplap. Make sure to do this while the caulk is still wet. Some of the larger gaps will need to be caulked twice, as the caulk shrinks when it dries.

After wood filling all nail holes and end joints

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After I caulked and wood filled everything, I went over the wood filler with sandpaper so that the paint would go on smoothly and all the nail holes and joints would disappear. I added the crown molding and baseboards in and went over the whole wall with a light coat of wall paint.

I am thrilled with the texture that the shiplap adds to the space! I hope this tutorial is helpful for those of you looking for advice.

Thanks for reading!

Michelle

/Michelle Riley

DIY

DIY

Sours: https://www.blushingbohodesign.com/blog/diy-horizontal-shiplap
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7. With its strong lines and handcrafted feel, it works almost anywhere.

not just for cozy charm: shiplap in a clean lined, sparse bath in nordic beaut 14

Advises architect (and shiplap enthusiast) Sheila Bonnell: “Because it creates texture in such a clean, unfussy way, it can work just as well in a contemporary setting. In fact, one of the things I love about shiplap is that it works both ways. Because it is handcrafted, it can add warmth to what might be a more austere modern setting. Or, conversely, because it has a very clean line, particularly when painted, it can be used to make a historical setting feel more contemporary.” Read more about the many ways to use shiplap in Expert Advice: The Enduring Appeal of Shiplap.

8. Top down or bottom up?

painted shiplap in provincetown eclectic: a design duo channels p town’s sto 15

Experts say you can’t go too wrong with installing shiplap: so long as everything is measured with care, it’s fairly forgiving. Whether you start with the top board and work your way down, or start with the bottom and work your way up, just be sure the first board is level, since the rest will follow suit. (Keep in mind that your boards may not fit evenly top to bottom, depending on the width of the boards versus the height of your wall; if you’d rather have a full board at the top, start there.)

8. Paint with care.

shiplap adds warmth to a bath in a cottage reborn in coastal maine. photograph 16

The charm of shiplap comes from the visible gap between the boards. If you choose to paint yours, paint with care to be sure the paint doesn’t fill in the gaps.

9. Obsessed with shiplap? There’s a tee shirt for that.

As a testament to just how popular shiplap has become, Magnolia Home (by Chip and Joanna Gaines or Fixer Upper fame) now sells a #shiplap tee shirt for $26.

10. The downside: dust.

a detail of shiplap in sheila bonnell‘s guest room; photograph by matthew w 17

If you install shiplap horizontally, be aware that the small gaps that give shiplap its charm are also perfect little spaces for dust to collect. Give your walls a once-over with a duster or cloth every once in a while to be sure they stay dust-free.

For much more on shiplap, see:

Sours: https://www.remodelista.com/posts/shiplap-pros-cons-10-things-to-know/
15 Shiplap Don'ts - What NOT to do When Installing Shiplap

How to DIY Shiplap Walls on the Cheap!

I’m sharing how I got the look of true shiplap walls on the cheap with DIY tips for getting the job done right from prep to install to the finishing touches!
(affiliate links included in post – full disclosure statement available {here})

It’s been a few years now since we gave our master bedroom a major facelift and we’ve enjoyed our refreshed space so much. Now that we have our pretty shiplap walls, it’s hard to believe that I lived with the ever-so-lovely light blue faux finished textured walls for as long as I did!  

Love the shiplap walls in this bedroom - this post tells you how to do it!

Scroll & click/tap to shop our bedroom:

 

My shiplap walls were a labor of love but sooo worth it. Since I’ve gotten so many emails with questions about how I knocked this project out, I thought I’d write up a quick post to share some what-to-do and what-not-to-do tips that I learned along the way! 

How to DIY a shiplap wall on the cheap!

For Cheap Shiplap Faux is the Way to Go!

There’s definitely a significant cost savings to creating the look of shiplap with plywood strips instead of using true shiplap boards so that’s one reason that faux is the way to go. But also, since true shiplap boards are about 3/4″ deep, it means that you have to remove ALL of your molding (baseboards, crown molding, door trim) to install “real” shiplap and then reinstall the molding back on top of it. Umm… no thank you! We went with plywood strips that are only 1/4″ deep so we were able to leave all of the molding in the room in place and simply butt the wood strips up against it. So much easier!
Faux shiplap walls - love! Post includes tips for DIYing it yourself!

Shiplap Prep: Paint Your Walls & Do Your Math!

Prep work for a shiplap wall project is key! First off, you want to paint the walls in the room the same color that you’re going to paint your shiplap. Why? Because there’s a small gap between the boards where you can see the wall and you definitely don’t want a different color showing through. Seeing this lovely light blue wall color (which is what they looked like before doing this project) between the white boards wouldn’t have been such a great look!

Our master bedroom before remodeling

I also painted the top and bottom edges of each shiplap board before it went up on the wall because I knew it would be a little nightmarish to try and paint the edges by sticking a paintbrush through the small space between the boards once they were hung. Truth be told it took me a LONG time to pre-paint them so I’m not sure if this part of my prepwork was a time-saver or not in the end.

The other prepwork that’s a definite must is a little bit of math – you want all of your boards to be the same height rather than getting to the end and realizing that you’re going to have an awkward thin strip at the bottom. So measure the space between the crown molding and baseboard and figure out a good height to cut the boards so that they fill the space exactly. Just don’t forget to take the spacing in between the boards into account when making your calculations! I ended up going with a height of 6 1/4″ for mine. 

Beware of Home Improvement Centers Saws!

The cheapest way to get thin wood shiplap strips at an exact height is to cut them out of 1/4″ plywood or MDF sheets (I went with maple plywood sheets because they seemed to be the smoothest of the 1/4″ plywood options at Lowes).  Lowes and Home Depot will cut your plywood sheets into strips for you for a small fee and while I know some people have had this done successfully, I would definitely proceed with caution – their saws are made for doing rough cuts and often leave jagged and/or uneven edges. If you’re going to try having them do it for you, I would try just one sheet first to check that you’re getting a nice clean and even cut. If not, hire this job out to a contractor if you don’t have your own table saw. 

Another option that’s become available since doing my shiplap walls is buying pre-cut & boards like {these} – they get great reviews!

There Is Such a Thing as Too Many Nail Holes (when you’re the one filling them…)

I had my contractor working with me on the install and we worked out a system where I sanded each board and painted the top and bottom edges and then he put it up on the wall. He installed each board using a nail gun (being sure to get some nails into studs) in addition to applying Liquid Nails on the back of each board. Here’s what it was looking like at this point:

How to DIY shiplap on the cheap - tips and full tutorial!

Those suckers are definitely going nowhere which is great but here’s the thing… I was the lucky one that got to fill and sand each and every one of those nail holes before I painted and oh my gosh there were soooo many nail holes and it was sooo time consuming. I’m pretty sure we could have cut the number of nails used in half and those boards still would have been super secure. Thank goodness I had team of helpers to help me knock out the nail filling (ok the furry one wasn’t much help but my daughter sure was!):

DIY tutorial on installing shiplap walls!

Nickels Make Great Spacers

It’s important to keep the spacing between your wood strips consistent and an easy way to do that is with nickels! The amount of space you leave between boards is totally personal preference – if you want less spacing you can use pennies and if you want more spacing, use tile spacers.

Use nickels as a spacer for DIY shiplap!

The Key to Seamless Seams is Auto Body Filler

Unless you’re doing faux shiplap in a small room like a bathroom, you’re going to have vertical seams where one board ends and another begins. Some people don’t mind the look of the seams and leave them as-is but I wanted a look of seamless planks along the wall. Normally I would use wood filler for a project like this but my contractor gave me the great tip of using {this Bondo putty} – it sands just like wood filler but leaves a smoother finish and is less likely to crack over time. The auto body fillers come in two parts – you simply mix the putty with a little bit of the activation cream (I did this on a plastic plate),

A tip for using auto body filler to create seamless joints!

smooth it over the seam with a putty knife, and then sand smooth once it’s dry:

Tip for eliminate joints on shiplap walls - use auto body filler!

The only negative is that you have to work fast and only mix it in small batches because it hardens quickly. 

That about covers it! I wrapped up the project by vacuuming the dust off the planks and out of the spaces between them and then I calked the corners and primed and painted the shiplap. It definitely wasn’t a quick project but I feel like I got the true shiplap look for a fraction of the cost and love my room as much today as the day that I finished it:

Simple styling over a bedroom dresser - large round mirror, lamp, and planter with two pieces of layered art

Hope that’s helpful! Let me know if you have any questions!

Driven by Decor Source List

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Furniture & Lighting: Upholstered headboard |  Black metal nightstands | New gray wood nightstands | Camp stools | Dresser (no longer available) with these knobs | Brass swing arm wall sconces | New white table lamps |  Scalloped semi flushmount ceiling light | Wood lamp on dresser – no longer available

Bedding, Drapes, & Rug: White & gray print duvet cover | Quilt in king (color is Flagstone) | Gray & white dragon pillows  |  Gray crosshatch pillow  |  Window drapes (mine are single-width blackout lined in White) | Diamond jute & cream rug

Mirror, Art, & Accessories: Large round mirror | Large floral print by chair | Acrylic and brass frame |Colorful abstract print | Small lily print | Wood tray

Wall color: Farrow & Ball All White

XO,

KJ Signature

Categories: bedroomsTags: wall treatments

Sours: https://www.drivenbydecor.com/how-diy-shiplap-walls/

Shiplap seamless

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DIY Shiplap Wall Installation with NO NAIL HOLES TO FILL

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